VI: By the Ocean

Ah, the beach!

Left Cochin a few days ago on an 8-hour boat trip along the Keralian Backwaters (Israeli guy still up North). It was serene as fuck, passing pretty little villages, some of the menfolk fishing with spears, dodging the steady flow of hummingboats. I bought some brandy for the voyage, which the captain noticed, on which he immediately invited me into his cabin for a drink (of my brandy). Coming in towards Kollam I was witness to one of the golden treasures of Kerala… the narrow backwaters suddenly fann’d out into an awesome, horizon filling scene… 360 degrees of palm tipp’d coastline. I was literally hauled onto my feet in one of those Scott of the Antarctic moments.

Ah, the beach!

Here life is so chillin’. Dark golden sand hugging the bottom of volcanic red cliffs, on which sit a number of restaurants. Life basically consists of lying on the beach interspersed with refreshment breaks (those steps up the cliff are a killer). I have never been this close to the equator before & it’s hot! Also, we are very close to the Indian Ocean & this I can see in the waves – they are mean fuckers & already I have lost some beads, shorts, got a graze on my arm from being flung onto the sea-bed & all day yesterday I was convinced I had broken my neck!

So I’m staying put for a while. I’ve got great accommodation, pleasant rooms by a pond (so the fish eat all the mosquitoes) with my own private eating hut set out in the water. Last night I was sat down smoking with an Italian lady & she was giving me flawless, romantic Italian for my film. The tantric landlord has just leant me a guitar so I’m gonna sit down & write me some psychedelic ‘Eastern’ numbers – I’ve bought some Indian tunes & a big bag o grass so wish me luck.

Varkala
6th February

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